Download Birdhouses and More by A.J. Hamler PDF

By A.J. Hamler

ISBN-10: 1440333149

ISBN-13: 9781440333149

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Speaking of those drainage holes, now’s a good time to drill a pair of ¼" to ⅜" holes through the bottom. This design doesn’t lend itself well to having a pivoting door, so we’ll screw the floor into place after drilling countersunk holes on all four sides (PHOTO 8). Whenever the house needs to be cleaned, just unscrew the floor to remove the old nest and debris, and replace the screws. Measure carefully to ensure you get those screws centered in the house walls, and remember that the screws on the sides must be angled slightly to match the slant of the side walls.

To make this easier, you may want to first hold the shelf assembly in place and trace around it in pencil to act as a drilling guide, as with the shelf assembly on the suet feeder in the previous chapter. Apply a bit of waterproof glue to the back edges of the shelf assembly and screw it into place with three 1⅝" exterior-grade screws (PHOTO 6). Commercial squirrel feeders use a thin, smooth rod to hold the corncob. These don’t work particularly well because the squirrels have no trouble knocking the corncobs off the rod and onto the ground.

For tight, attractive joints, align the angles and bevels carefully on the edges of the front and back pieces before nailing. Put a bit of glue on the top edges of the assembled house and drop the roof into position, centered front-toback, and nail it into place (PHOTO 6). I’m using a nailer with 1½" brads, but a hammer and 4d or 6d galvanized PHOTO 1 The house sides require a bevel on both the top and bottom edges. PHOTO 2 Use the Pattern to check the tricky angles and bevels PHOTO 3 Nails in the waste plus a screw in the entrance hole location keep the front and back sandwiched together for sawing.

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